![]() ![]() Just to reiterate, these streaks and spots are not imperfections in the wood, as they did not exist after the first coat of india ink but only after applying the second coat. I’ve attached pictures to demonstrate what I’m seeing. Do 2 coats and when dried spray shellac on it. The test pieces were small, though, not the size of a tabletop. When using it for pine stain first with min wax true black then India ink to get the best. On my test pieces of ash, the dye went on with three coats beautifully. When applying the second coat, if some drops of ink were to splatter or fall on the table ahead and sit for a moment, by the time I wiped them there would be light tone dots left…same with the wiped streaks, they are lighter in tone.Ĭan anybody comment from experience using india ink, why it is that the second coat seems to pull up the ink in some cases? Any way to fix these light spots without having to sand back to raw wood? Once an intial coat of india ink has been applied and dried, it seems that a second coat can do strange things like pulling the dye up and leaving lighter marks. By the time I had applied ink to the whole table and began to wipe off the excess, the ink seemed to be “setting up” and when wiping I could see streaks being left, almost like the ink was smearing…and it dried with those streaks visually present and lighter in tone. I’m not sure what technique people tend to use….either flood the india ink on, let it sit for some time (how long?) and wipe off (?).or…paint it on thin and let it dry. The second coat went on a little different, the ink was harder to spread and it seemed to be “setting up” quicker. I decided to use a clean, lint-free rag to wipe on the second coat so that I could rub the dye into the grain better. I painted the first coat of india ink on with a foam brush, wiped it off with a blue shop towel, let it dry and the results turned out pretty good although an additional coat would be necessary. ![]() Next I raised the grain: applied distilled water, let dry and then lightly removed whiskers with a 3M ultra fine pad, did this twice…grain really didn’t raise the second time…vacuum, compressed air, wiped with denatured alcohol and let dry….on to the india ink. Vacuumed and use compressed air between grits. I have a large 6’x3’ ash tabletop that I prepped for dye by sanding with a ROS from 80, 120,150 and 220…then handsanded 220 with the grain. I’m having some issues with streaks and spots that have appeared with my SECOND coat of india ink on ash. Self posts need at least a few descriptive words or they will be removed To prevent spam, accounts must be older than 1 hour to post ![]() Self promotion isn't showing off something you made it's linking to items/services for sale. No self promotion or direct linking to items for sale. After an hour has passed, rinse the area with warm water. Apply the paste to the stained area and let it sit for about an hour. First, you’ll want to create a paste out of baking soda and water. Before hitting submit, check that your content doesn't violate the rules below. But don’t worry, there are a few things you can do to remove it. I also painted individual shingles to look like patchwork repairs had been made over the years./r/finishing is a forum that encourages the respectful exchange of wood or metal finishing knowledge and projects. Though I didn’t need those details here, I enhanced the depot roof by leaving shingles off this abandoned structure, exposing the bare subroof. I will add that if youre considering French polishing an entire piano to get a piano. If youre really interested, the best course is to try a sample. (Yes you can dissolve shellac in water provided the water has the right PH.) Today India ink has many different formulations. Vents, air conditioners, and antennas, among other things, can make the roof visually interesting. India ink was originally lamp black mixed into a water born shellac. On many layouts, the roof is the most visible part of a building. Structure weathering doesn’t have to be limited to just the walls. Though I’ve built structures in plastic, brass, and plaster, I prefer wood for detailed weathering projects like this. Photos by Bill Zuback and Jim Forbesįor this project, I used an American Model Builders HO scale Northern Pacific class C depot kit. Cody Grivno explains how to model this “weather-beaten” wood structure. This Northern Pacific class C depot has seen better days. Peeling and faded paint, a roof in need of repair, and broken glass are just a few of the ways to turn an ordinary structure into a standout model. However, structure weathering is another way to add realism to a layout. Model a weather-beaten wood structure: In model railroading, weathering is typically associated with freight cars and locomotives.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |